Cycling in the Netherlands

Viewed from the saddle: some selected info for foreigners considering a cycling trip in or through the Netherlands, to get an idea of cycling life overhere.

NBT: the Dutch Tourist Board

For general touristic information about the Netherlands you can visit the official site of the Dutch Tourist Board, which includes some touristic cycling info (rentals, routes; go to submenu "Active").

Several route suggestions and other cycling related info (e.g. rentals) can be found on the bicycling section of the website of the Dutch tourist and motorist assocation ANWB (in Dutch).

keywords:
Bike theft | Air&ferry port access | Ferries | Trains | Accommodation

True or false?

Below I've listed a number of common opinions and/or prejudices that are expressed more or less often about cycling in the Netherlands. If you're interested to find out to which extent they are true, read the texts that follow.

The Netherlands are a cyclist's heaven.
Everybody rides a bicycle in the Netherlands, young and old.
There are dedicated cycle paths and bike facilities everywhere.
Dutch roads and cycle paths are badly paved and very uncomfortable.
Bikes are stolen by the zillions: always chain your bike to a fence or pole.
You are ridiculed when you wear a helmet.
Drivers are very considerate to cyclists and always yield.
Most Dutch bikes are cluckers.
All Dutch bikes have lights and mud guards on them.
There's nothing as romantic as transporting your fiancee on the back carrier of your bike.

The cycling community

The Netherlands are often considered as a cyclist's paradise: easy cycling terrain, many special cycle paths separate from the main traffic and many special facilities. You'll find many people cycling here, and this evidently calls for appropriate infrastructure.
Cycling is accepted as an important mode of transportation and not simply as either a kid's game or a professional sport. This makes the Dutch cycling community very diverse: kids on their first bike, children riding to school, people commuting to work, couples on holiday, OAPs on a leisurely Sunday ride, racing professionals, they all share the same network.
The other side to this is that it can get a bit crowded on the cycling lanes, where so many people often riding with different attitudes and at significantly different speeds come together. The large use of bicycles does however lead to the wide availability of diverse facilities, like many dedicated bike paths, repair shops, rental points and guarded parking.

Cycling paths or lanes are very much in use to separate bicycle traffic from motorised traffic. This separate network features its own traffic lights and direction pointers (red lettering on white). The main motivation and function of this approach is the protection of the cyclist from motorised traffic. It can result, however, in the frustrating situation of having to constantly yield right of way and experiencing increased waiting time at traffic lights. A further drawback of this separation approach can be that where bikes and cars occasionally do come together, the average car driver may no longer be very attentive or willing to take very much consideration with cyclists. (In this respect I have often been pleasantly surprised by the considerate attitudes towards visiting cyclists in other countries, like France and Britain.) Admitted, the frustration of drivers is often fed by the disregard of many cyclists to any traffic rule whatsoever.

Bicycle theft
The risk of your bicycle getting stolen merits an attitude of caution, as bike theft makes up a large portion of petty crime in the Netherlands. Last year's bike theft figures amounted to an astonishing 900,000! However, there's no real need to get too paranoid in general. The risk is especially severe in the larger towns (notably Amsterdam) and/or those with a large student population, much like on the average US campus I guess. Let's not assume that this indicates that every student is a bike thief, but just that there's a large market for cheap second hand bikes in those places. Outside of the larger urban areas the situation is much more relaxed, though.
This means that a good lock and chain to secure your bike is an essential part of your luggage. In larger cities it isn't advisable to leave your bike outside overnight, and in any case the advice is: ride it or lock it. Not locking your bike is commonly regarded as an unforgivable negligence. When making short stops at say a shop or restaurant, it's a good thing to try to keep an eye on the bike if possible.
To avoid worrying about bike theft when sightseeing for a prolonged time, I'd advise to visit larger towns by public transport (which is very frequent) or on foot, note that most historic town centres are quite small. Leave your bike at the hostel where you are staying, or at a guarded bike parking which you can usually find at the larger railway stations, and sometimes near major shopping areas. (BTW: the largest indoor bicycle parking is at the new central railway station at Leiden, and has a capacity of 7000 bikes.)

Getting started: upon arrival in the Netherlands
Just showing up at the border on your bike can never be a problem: note that all land borders are now 'internal' due to the Schengen treaty. You may not even notice crossing the border, as formalities with Belgium and Germany have long since been very minor. The same applies more or less when arriving by train.

International arrival in the Netherlands involving any formality will then either take place at Schiphol Airport or at the docking port of one of the ferries arriving from England. Some info to help you find your way out:

Schiphol Airport: There is a railway station located beneath the air terminal. Also, you can easily cycle to and from the terminal building, by way of separate cycle paths.
Hoek van Holland: Stena Line high speed ferry to Harwich (England). The railway station is close to the harbour.
Rotterdam Europoort: P&O-North Sea Ferries to Hull (England). The terminal is in the industrial area of the Rotterdam port, about 35 km from the town centre. There is no railway station close to the terminal, the nearest station is Maassluis at 10 km, including a ferry crossing. Bus service for foot passengers to/from Rotterdam Central Station (no bikes taken). Good access by road over separate cycle path (which, at last, has been furnished with a comfortable paving).
IJmuiden: DFDS Seaways (formerly Scandinavian Seaways) ferry to Newcastle (England). No railway station at the ferry terminal (closest is Driehuis at some km), bus service to Amsterdam CS but no bikes taken. The way out on bike is quite easy, though. (see also DFDS Seaways' pages for port information on IJmuiden and Newcastle.

Update: The Eurolink ferry service between Vlissingen and Sheerness has been discontinued; also, DFDS Seaways is presently not operating any lines between the Netherlands and Scandinavia.

The traffic network: roads, cycling paths, ferries and public transport

Roads and cycle paths. As remarked, separate cycling paths form an essential part of the Dutch traffic network. Many of them serve as a separate lane for cyclists along main traffic roads, these roads themselves are therefore invariably forbidden for bicycle traffic. This means that a few large road bridges or tunnels cannot be used, but most of them are equipped with cycle lanes. On the other hand, there are numerous touristic cycle paths, small bridges and ferries providing additional opportunities that cars don't get! Very pleasant are the touristic cycle paths leading through recreational areas or rural landscapes. These paths often have a connecting function as well and can therefore be used as part of larger cycle tours. Also, the secondary and backroads make pleasant cycling as well.
In this regard: for comfort I'd recommend tire sizes of at least 28 mm for riding without luggage and 32 mm for loaded touring.

Road conditions. Roads are usually either asphalt or made from red brick-like pavement stones. Cobble stones are seldom used for road pavement (unlike in Belgium), and may only occur at heavy-duty roads, say near harbour quays, or with a kind of nostalgia in small streets in historic town areas. For cycle paths quite often larger flat tile-like pavement stones are used. Negative point is that cycle paths along major roads can be quite inferior in surface quality and/or maintenance with respect to the main road :( Also because of the motorised traffic density these routes are better avoided altogether if a good alternative by minor roads is available.

Ferries. River ferries that carry motorised traffic always allow bicycles as well, and normally have a continuous service during most of the day. Mostly you pay a small fee, upon boarding. The smaller (foot) passenger ferries also take bicycles, but as they usually have a local or touristic purpose, most of them feature an irregular schedule. Some may operate only on week-days, others only in weekends, or during summer, or only once every (few) hour(s). If you plan a route that really depends on such a service try to check the schedule. They can, however, provide an opportunity of a very pleasant alternative route.
In addition I would like to mention in particular the touristic services (foot passengers and bicycles only) that cross the IJsselmeer - which forms a relaxing alternative to the 32 km Afsluitdijk. The ferries are in service during the summer months only and have three sailings a day in each direction.

Enkhuizen - Stavoren: 1 May - 29 Sept three sailings every day (limited service in April and October: not on mondays and morning and evening sailings only); trip duration 90 min; prices/timetable 2000: single fare (adult) NLG 12.50, bicycle NLG 6.25.
departure times Enkhuizen: 8:45, 12:45 and 16:45
departure times Stavoren: 10:15, 14:15 and 18:15
Info: shipping company Naco (phone 20-6262466); see also here.

Enkhuizen - Urk: 24 June - 7 Sept three sailings Mo - Sat; trip duration 90 min; prices 1996: single fare NLG 12.00, bicycle NLG 6.50.
departure times Enkhuizen: 9:30, 13:15 and 17:00
departure times Urk: 11:30, 15:15 and 18:40
Info: shipping company FRO (phone 527-683407; fax 527-683391).

Public transport. You're allowed to take your bike with you on most trains. For this you have to buy an additional ticket, which you attach to your bike. Single fare prices for distances less than 80 km are NLG 10, for more than 80 km NLG 15 (day return prices are NLG 17.50 and 25, respectively). The main restriction is that it's not possible to transport bikes during rush hours on week days (that's before 9.00 and 16.30-18.00 on Monday through Friday), but this does not apply to the months of July and August. You have to take care of the loading/unloading yourself, for which you should preferably use the luggage compartment or those areas specially assigned to bicycle storage. The latter are indicated by a pictogram of a bicycle with attached label.

The offical site of the Dutch railways NS (in Dutch); a large collection of European railway information can be found at the Mercurio railway server

You're allowed to take your bike on the subway in Amsterdam and Rotterdam; buses and trams don't take bicycles.

Cycling hardware and bike rental

The average Dutch bike
As a result of the risk of bike theft, many city dwellers (notably students) go around on cluckers in a state of delapidation that may astonish you. This is a very common practice, not only to limit the loss of value at theft, but also as a kind of insurance by reducing the appeal to theft. These bikes are used only for 'high-risk' rides around or into town, or for going to the university. Usually, they will have a good second bike, for long-distance or recreational cycling, or a third one for racing and sports, etc. Many people, however, have fairly good bikes, esp. for daily commuting. Large amounts of new bikes are sold every year. In 1995 bike sales amounted to a record 1.35 million.
Until, say, ten years ago the most common bicycle types in use in the Netherlands were the classic upright Dutch bike and the more or less professional racing bike. The former typically features 26 or 28 wheels with tires 37 mm or wider, and either a single-speed back-pedal hub brake or a three-speed hub in combination with hand-operated rim or drum brakes. Typically they come fully equipped with fenders, lights, closed chain guard and a sturdy rear carrier suitable to transport your girl friend on. Nowadays you'll encounter in addition the complete range of hybrid, touring and mountain bikes.

Above you see examples of the classic Dutch bike in its most sturdy appearance. The 'ladies model' on the right, note the adapted frame geometry, is often unofficially referred to as omafiets ('granny bike').

A typical standard item that causes some surprise to foreigners is the factory-installed bicycle lock below the saddle, and which passes through the spokes of the rear wheel when closed. The lock is closed by removing the key and opened by inserting it: you can't remove the key without closing the lock.

Famous Dutch bike manufacturers are Gazelle and Batavus, for touring bikes Koga-Miyata and Giant are very popular brands as well.

Cycle shops and repair
You'll find cycle shops and repair facilities in virtually every village, although you may need to go to more specialised shops in larger towns if you're looking for high-end components. Some bicycle renting points at railway stations may provide a (simple) repair service as well.
The tire sizes that are most common are the 26 x 1 3/8 (ERTRO 37-590) for the classic bike and 28 x 1 1/4 (ERTRO 32-622) for recreational bikes. In addition to these, most bike shops will have a large selection of other sizes in store, including several MTB types.

Bringing your own bike or rent one?
Bike rental would certainly be advisable if you just intend to make a few day tours from some sort of fixed accomodation. You can do this on a day-to-day basis or for some consecutive days. Typically you can find bike rental at the larger railway stations or provided by specialised bicycle shops. A good address to start your enquiry would in general be the local tourist office, which in the Netherland is known as the VVV.
Internet: the ANWB site provides an address list of approved rental locations, while the NBT provides a searchable list. Or search the Gouden Gids (Yellow Pages, with map!).
Note that the type mostly on offer is the typical Dutch upright single-speed hub-brake bike, but rental of other types as MTB or tandem is becoming increasingly popular.

When making longer multi-day tours you may consider rental instead of bringing your own bike. Although it is very well possible to rent good MTB or touring bikes I would certainly advise to investigate and arrange this ahead of arrival. Also, several organisations exist, in the Netherlands as well as abroad, that provide more or less complete bicycle tour arrangements. This usually include bike rental and luggage transport between subsequent locations of accomodations.

Traffic regulations

In the Dutch traffic law bicycles form a separate category, and therefore some special regulations apply, which may be different from those for motorised traffic or those in other countries. In short, the traffic law distinguishes between 'slow traffic' (bicycles, mopeds) and 'fast traffic' (motorcycles and cars).

Access of roads
Bike paths and bike roads are indicated by a blue circular sign with a white bicycle symbol. NEW: As of 15 Dec 1999 the regulations about "brommers" (mopeds, see below) have been changed: as a rule these have now to use the main road rather than the bike roads, as previously. They are allowed on the bike roads only if explicitly indicated, by the blue traffic sign carrying both a bicycle and a moped symbol. Usually, when a major road has a bike path alongside it, the road itself is forbidden for bikes even though this may not be indicated explicitly by a sign. Cycling on the road regardless of this may not be appreciated by car drivers.
Officially you're allowed to cycle with two abreast, provided there is sufficient room for this, and you don't hinder the other traffic. On bike paths you may quite frequently encounter situations where this leads to cyclists using up the full width of the path.
Finally, cycling is not allowed on sidewalks and pedestrian areas, although this doesn't stop many people from doing so.
Right of way
I once read in a newsgroup posting: Drivers are very courteous to people on bikes and are always given the right of way.
Don't count on that: even officially this is not true. The confusing Dutch system of right of way is complicated and often not very advantageous to cyclists. This may be worse in practice in that even in those cases when you do have right of way, motorists may not be aware of it, or simply don't yield.
Some 'rules & remarks' about right of way when cycling in the NL:
1. Relatively few crossings have a priority explicitly indicated by signs (esp. in comparison to the UK, for example). For those that have road markings (white triangular) are more common than traffic signs.
2. On a crossing (with equal priority) the traffic coming from the right has the right of way.
3. Until recently this rule did NOT apply when bicycle-meets-car: bicycles as 'slow traffic' had to yield to 'fast traffic' like cars, even when coming from the right. This was quite confusing, as this is not so in most European countries, where bicycles are not regarded as a separate class of traffic. This rule had been imposed by the German authorities during the occupation in World War II, and had not been lifted since. Finally, after years of debate, the rule has been abolished as of May 2001.
4. When on the same road the traffic taking a side turn has to yield the traffic that continues on this road. In this case cars DO have to yield to bikes.
5. Traffic leaving exits or unclassified roads has to yield to traffic on the main road; this typically also applies where bike paths end or cross other roads.
6. The right of way situation on roundabouts is quite often unclear, as there is (still) no uniform regulation in traffic law, the reason for this being that they haven't been applied much until recently. For some roundabouts priority may be according to the general rule (i.e. the traffic coming from the right has priority), while for others the traffic approaching the roundabout has to yield to the traffic already on it. In addition, the position of the bicycle in this may be such that it shares the road and/or the right of way with all other traffic, but it may also be the case that there is a bike path on the outside of the roundabout which is treated as separate from it. To confuse matters for cyclists even further, not all drivers seam to view the roundabout in the same way: some appear to regard it as a sort of crossing and fail to indicate direction when leaving the roundabout. As a result of this roundabouts are advised to be approached with extra caution.
Lighting
Legally, you have to carry lights and reflection when riding at dark. This includes a white front and red tail light, a red rear reflector, reflective pedals and some sort of side reflection on both wheels or tires. This side reflection should be circular, either a reflective strip on the tire, or one separately attached to the spokes. Although single spoke reflectors are legally not sufficient, you're not likely to get into problems about that, provided you do carry front and tail lights which I'd strongly advise in any case, for your own safety and that of fellow riders.
This legal obligation doesn't mean that there isn't a large crowd not carrying any lighting or reflection, even though it can be quite dangerous and you can get fined for it.
Helmets
There is no legal obligation to wear a helmet in everyday cycling, only in organised racing competitions. In everyday cycling helmets are rarely worn, as most people have a style and speed of cycling where such is (or thought to be) less necessary. Helmets are seen more and more frequently, though, also during recreational riding at moderate speeds. There is a popular expectation that a helmet should be accompanied by a sportive look as material and clothing are concerned. Although people may be quick to express a negative opinion on anything they consider 'out of the ordinary', usually no offense is meant by doing so. So, if you're used to wearing a helmet when touring and feel comfortable by it, don't hesitate to do so.
Others
In addition there are a number of other rules, many of which are ignored by most people as long as no police is obviously in sight (or even then). Officially you have to signal when making a turn by putting out your arm, but who does it? The three most popular offences for which cyclists may get fined are:
1. Ignoring the red light.
2. Riding at night without lighting.
3. Riding up the wrong direction of a one-way street.

Some remarks with regard to cycle touring:

1.Period If possible avoid the peak months July and August; I would advise May/June (or possibly September): all facilties are already available, but not too overcrowded - perhaps apart from the days around public holidays. Weather can be as good as it may get in summer. On the other hand, if you avoid the top touristic areas, or when the availability of accommodation is of a lesser concern, July and August may be quite feasible as well.

2.Accommodation

Camping: campsites are widely available and should be no problem provided you take point 1 into account! According to legal camping regulations 'free or wild camping' on public grounds outside official sites is forbidden; officially the fine is $100 per person! Police controls are indeed carried out in areas and periods where wild camping may become a nuisance. This doesn't mean of course you can't ask owners for permission to stay on their private land. Remember however, that the Netherlands are very densely populated, so the chances of finding much ground not in use may be rather slim.

Regular camping grounds can be quite full in peak periods. As a rule, you get an appointed camping place for which you pay typically some $15 per night (2 persons). No (national or international) camping card or carnet is required. Sometimes campings provide a special area for short-term camping (trekkersveld), or offer reduced rates for hikers/cyclists. Further information about location and/or facilities can be obtained from the selective guides or listings published by tourist organisations (ANWB) or at the local tourist offices (VVV). Searcheable data bases of camping grounds can be found on the pages of the NBT or the ANWB.
Natuurkampeerterreinen: There is a network of 115 small or moderately-sized basic camping grounds, very well suited for overnight camping. Many of them are owned by the National Forestry Commission SBB and they are located mostly in the northern and eastern regions of the country. Some other participating organisations are: LKC (estates/castle grounds), NIVON, NTKC and VNK. For overnight camping reservation is normally not required and officially a place is guaranteed for hikers/cyclists provided they arrive prior to 19 PM. Typical price for 2 persons + tent is about $8-10. You require a separate membership card ($10) for which you receive a booklet describing all locations. More info: Stichting Natuurkampeerterreinen, phone 412-453713. The camping permit can also be obtained from ANWB offices, at the Fietsvakantiewinkel or from the following organisations: ENFB, NIVON and SBB. (see below)
On the NIVON(organisation for nature education) website (in Dutch), you can find information about their campings sites; they run a number of hostels as well (see also below).
Mini-campings or farm campings (Kamperen bij de boer): usually small sites with basic facilities and low or moderate price rates. There are a number of different organisations, some require a modest donation-like membership. The two largest are SVR (1200 locations) and VEKABO (500 locations).
Other (indoor) accomodation: see also the net-pages of the Dutch Tourist Board NBT for hotels, YHA hostels, student hostels or group stay facilities. A list of farm house accomodations is available here (in Dutch).
- Camping huts (trekkershutten): mostly located at campings sites or near hostels, they provide bunk beds (mattress + pillow) for up to 4 people, lighting/electricity and simple cooking facilities. No private sanitary facilities - use those of the camping/hostel. You pay approx. $30 per cabin per night (independent of number of occupants) - no membership required. The huts are intended for short occupancy (1-3 nights only), especially for touring. There are 250 locations with an average capacity of 2-4 huts. Reservation is strongly advised, in particular for the summer season. A complete listing is available from Tourist Offices, or from the Stichting Trekkershutten Nederland phone 71-5605980.
- Youth hostels: you pay $12-15 per night for a bed (bring sheet/sleeping bag or rent sheets) typically in a shared 4-10 bed room; a limited number of private or family rooms may be available. Cooking facilities and meal services are provided. No age limitations. A YHA membership is not required, but non-members (guests) are charged an additional $3. There are 37 YHA hostels in the Netherlands, average size is 100-150 beds. Further info from the Dutch Youth Hostels Organisation NJHC; phone 20-5513155 or the NJHC website.
  In addition, the NIVON runs 15 hostels (membership not required), while there are also a further 14 unaffiliated youth hostels (half of them are in Amsterdam).
  Check also the net-pages of the NBT of YHA youth hostels and student hostels, or the Worldwide Hostel Guide.
- Rooms: budget hotels rooms (1-3 star) or pensions (guest houses) can be had already for $25 per person. Guest houses commonly charge per person, hotels by room (the above rate then applies to double room occupancy without private facilities, in high season). Breakfast is normally included in the price. Some means for securing bicycles overnight is usually present. The NBT hotel data base referred to above contains hotels and guest houses.
  Other links (online reservation possibilities): HotelNet, Bookings.NL, Hotel Reservation Centre.
  Extensive lists for hotels and guest houses are available from Tourist Offices; these also provide a national booking service for a selection of hotels.
- Vrienden op de fiets: a national network of some 1200 private addresses offering cheap bed & breakfast accommodation for hikers and cyclists (not for motorists!). Prices are about $10-15 per person per night; a membership-like donation of $7 is required upon which you receive a full list of addresses. For info phone 316-524448.

3. Maps: Get detailed maps if you want to plan your own route. Most general road maps don't show cycle paths, and many major roads do not allow bicycles (but may often have separate bicycle paths alongside of them). Plan to take either the minor roads or cycle paths. Best choice is the 1:100,000 ANWB map, widely available here. These show cycle paths, passenger ferries, official camp sites and further touristic info. See also here.

4. Sights: I myself very much like the smaller historical towns, which are quite easily visited by bike. I would avoid visiting the larger towns (esp. Amsterdam) en-route. If you want to go there, better make it a separate day trip by public transport (which is very good) and/or visit the town centre on foot.

5. Route suggestions: Several route suggestions including references to signposted circular and long-distance routes can be found on the site of the ANWB (the Dutch tourist and motorist assocation). In addition to that, I have a trip report available of a ten days' tour in the northern provinces.

Double Dutch - a short cycling glossary

Bicycle: The common word for bicycle is fiets, pronounced approximately like 'feats'. A more formal and slightly obsolete designation is the word rijwiel, although this officially also includes mopeds, or 'bicycles with an auxiliary engine'. The classic bike is usually referred to as stadsfiets, the racing bike as racefiets. For most other types the English names are in use, like tandem and mountainbike. Also the words for several parts are equal or close to the English equivalents. If you want to indicate your disappreciation of a bike for being a boneshaker or clucker, you call it a rammelkast.
The common word for cyclist is fietser, while you may also come across the more formal wielrijder, not to be confused with wielrenner indicating a race cyclist.

Some bike parts and accessories:
(between square brackets the approximate pronounciation with apostrophe leading stressed syllable)
- frame: frame
- crank: crank
- pedal: pedaal [pe'dahl] or trapper
- wheel: wiel [weal]
- spoke: spaak [spahk]
- chain: ketting
- saddle: zadel ['zahdel]
- tire: buitenband ['buytenbahnd]
- tube: binnenband ['binnenbahnd]
- brake: rem
- cable: kabel ['kahbel]
- gear: versnelling [fur'snelling]
- handlebar: stuur [stuhr]
- panniers: fietstassen ['feats-tassen]
- luggage carrier: bagagedrager [bah-'khah-ge-drah-kher]
Some important road sign texts:
- fietsers uitgezonderd: this (sign, etc.) does not apply to cyclists
- fietsers afstappen: cyclists dismount
- paal in wegdek: obstacle in road (used to hinder other traffic from entering cycle paths)
- doorgaand verkeer: main through route, non-local traffic
- slecht wegdek: road in bad condition
- zachte/gevaarlijke berm: soft/dangerous shoulder

Bicycle path: fietspad.

Moped: there are two types of mopeds or light motorcycles, the bromfiets (light motorcycle of < 50 cc) and the even lighter snorfiets. You're likely to encounter these 'buzzbikes' on the cycle roads you're using as a cyclist.

Repair shop: A bicycle shop is referred loosely to as a fietsenwinkel, or a fietsenmaker when emphasising the availability of repair facility.

Parking: A parking facility for bicycles is called a (fietsen)stalling or rijwielstalling. A bewaakte or overdekte stalling means that the parking area is guarded (attended) or covered, respectively.